Chris Cochran Diary
1999 Gold Rush Wagon Train "Goin for the Gold"

Nebraska Trail Diary


 

Friday, May 7, 1999
Departed:   Arrived:
Lanham, Kansas   Rock Creek, Nebraska
Lanham to Rock Creek Station

A disheartening day for me as we continue our trek without the other wagons, for Ben drove his mules at a trot most of the day, which caused me to run alongside the wagon. I kept up the pace for the first seven or so miles but was developing a blister on one foot and something was going haywire on my other foot. Finally, I had to get in the wagon.
I need this trip to be a chance for me to walk and see and feel my personal progression across this great country - to have those moments to be in tuned spiritually and be able to grasp for myself the dreams of the people who steadily moved across this land in search of their own peace.

We are camped at Rock Creek Station, Nebraska, at what I would call a perfect place because of its historical significance, besides the fact that it is absolutely gorgeous and peaceful. The sun is struggling to break through these undaunting rain clouds and when the rays touch my face I can feel that all is perfect for me for the moment. I could live here indefinitely, walking over the trail ruts, following the various trails through the trees and creek beds and just simply existing within the beauty that surrounds me.

Rock Creek Station was a place where the emigrants stopped for supplies and repairs on their wagons. Because of the steep embankments along Rock Creek, a toll bridge was built to accommodate traversing across the creek. Many of the buildings have been preserved here and further adds to the feeling that it's the 1800's.
A gentle breeze blows about me as I can practically see the Pony Express rider galloping swiftly off the hillside into the station to make his mounted exchange; the road-weary pioneers slowly making their way in for much needed supplies and a place to rest up; and can even wonder at best what events actually transpired when Wild Bill Hickok began his career as a gunfighter when he shot down David McCanles, the Rock Creek road ranch owner.

We have finally been relieved of the winds and this evening is breathtaking. Oh, but if only I could suspend such moments, I'd be held within this hour.
I can't help but feel the tears well within.

Chris Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999


Saturday, May 8, 1999
Departed:   Arrived:
Rock Creek, Nebraska   Layover
Rock Creek

We had our layover day here at Rock Creek and sure had a beautiful one to spend catching up on various things. Kay and I got our laundry done and I spent the afternoon just taking it easy. My feet need the day to try and recover.

Chris Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999

Sunday, May 9, 1999
Departed:   Arrived:
Rock Creek, Nebraska   Alexandria, Nebraska
Rock Creek Station to Alexandria

After downing a bite of breakfast, I headed out ahead of the train by about an hour. I was determined to make the mileage today and stay ahead of the wagon train as well. And I was successful, but I am tired. Unfortunately, I developed another blister on the back of my heel.

We covered 23 miles and are camped at Alexandria State Park. It's a lovely area with a small lake and lots of different trees around us. As I walked into the park all dressed in my prairie garb, I sure got some strange looks from everyone who was out recreating for the day. A group of families came to greet me, offered me a hot dog, hamburger, soda pop or whatever I wanted. I kindly asked for a drink of water. They gathered all their small children around me to have our photograph taken and I think the kids wondered who in the heck I was.
We've got a good hefty wind blowing this evening and I sure hope we aren't in for more storm.
In a fleeting moment today while I was walking past an area that looked as you would imagine it did some 150 years ago, I glimpsed the ghost of a most magnificent Indian warrior mounted upon his painted horse, his feathered headdress blowing in the wind, his bronzed skin glistening in the sun, his sturdy hand gripping his spear, and his face gloriously painted. And he was watching me pass by and I suddenly felt the intruder and wished that I could grant him back his land, his buffalo, his way of life.

Chris Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999


Monday, May 10, 1999
Departed:   Arrived:
Alexandria, Nebraska   Belvidere, Nebraska
Alexandria to Belvidere

I left ahead of the train this morning, thinking I could easily cover our 14 miles, but after having gone 10 of those miles, a blister broke on the side of my heel so I disappointingly sat down and waited for the wagon train to pick me up. Tonight, I am soaking my feet in Epsom's salts while I make this journal entry. I honestly don't know how those pioneers made it in the shoes they had. I feel like a wimp to complain.

We are in Belvidere, Nebraska, tonight, parked by their museum. Everyone is pretty relaxed and enjoying the time we have to rest. The mayor of this small community is a robust 84 year old woman who has held the position since 1974. She seems to take a lot of pride in her town and has genuinely welcomed us here.

I have failed to put down in words some of the good people I've met and any comments about the ones I travel with everyday. First of all, I owe a big thanks to Steve and Candy Moulton from Encampment, Wyoming, who traveled with us the first week. They really helped me in getting into the routine of living on the trail and were like friends I'd known forever. Thanks, you two. We all have really missed you.

In our group now we have Ben Kern, our wagonmaster, who nearly worries himself to death, but when he can relax has a great sense of humor and is fun to listen to; Donny Marincic, our trail boss, who quietly goes about his work and is a calming influence for all of us; Chuck Quillin, one of the teamsters and the guy who always has us laughing, a true blue sort of guy; Kay Threlkeld, who is representing the Park Service Long Distance Trails and is a lot of fun to be with and has a wealth of knowledge concerning the trails history; Gary, our life-saving chef who puts out the best meals you could have; and Bart, a young man along for the summer and is an easy and fun guy to talk to.

We had a lot of local folks come out tonight to eat a turkey dinner with us and they all seemed to be such good people, enthused by our efforts. We enjoy so much when people support us and we have that chance to make so many acquaintances along the way.

Tomorrow is a big day for us - some 20 odd miles and I won't be able to walk if I intend to heal. That's disappointing to me because I so enjoy the closeness I feel to nature when I'm walking. It provides me some great time to contemplate, to feel truly alive.

Chris Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999


Tuesday, May 11, 1999
Departed:   Arrived:
Belvidere, Nebraska   Oak, Nebraska
Belvidere to Oak

We covered 20 miles today, arriving in Oak, Nebraska, population 68. I rode the wagon all day, giving my feet a chance to recover. Experiencing the trail from the wagon isn't as rewarding for me as walking, doesn't make me feel I earned my groceries or that I was as intuned with the possibility of a vision of long ago. Somehow, I think the spirits of those many pioneers are more likely to whisper to me if I'm working at this journey, getting down on my own two feet and moving along as they did.

I'm grateful that there are still ruts of the westward migration. With the vast expanse of our nation and its people, one wonders how we have much left to testify of their travels. The ruts have a spirit all their own. One only needs step into them and be still and allow your mind and heart to be open enough to see the visions and feel their spirits there.

Chris Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999


Wednesday, May 12, 1999
Departed:   Arrived:
Oak, Nebraska   Deweese, Nebraska
Oak to Deweese

We woke to a heavy dew on everything but strong was the promise of sunshine. Kay and I left camp and had a beautiful eight mile walk before the wagons caught up with us. My feet are still sore but our pace was fairly slow so I was able to manage it. I really miss the challenge of trying to make all the miles on foot. We traveled 20.5 miles to the very small town of Deweese. The children in the neighborhood have been hanging around all evening and I'm not used to the commotion they create, so I slipped away to my wagon.

This experience is good for me because we come in contact with people everywhere we go. In my sheltered world at home, I watch television programs and newscasts and I start feeling like there isn't anyone who is a good human being anymore, but traveling along at three to four miles per hour gives me a chance to wave and be waved at, to say hello to someone who is working in the yard, and some folks have even brought cookies and a drink out to us. The people who come to our campsites and eat with us are the salt of the earth, the true backbone of our country and I'm pleased to report that there are many, many good people who are working hard, raising families and doing their genuine best.

Chris Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999


Thursday, May 13, 1999
Departed:   Arrived:
Deweese, Nebraska   Dyer Park, Nebraska

Deweese to Dyer Park

Kay and I walked out of camp at 7:15 and covered some nine miles or so before getting back in the wagons. I guess I'm not giving my feet a chance to get better, for I sure gimp about camp at night. This is becoming way too distressful to me to not be walking. I bought Nike brand shoes and intent to make a visit to the sports store this weekend when we lay over.

We traveled from Deweese to Dyer Park, making 23 miles today. Just as we got pulled into camp, I noticed a strong wind from the south and now we have clouds coming in. We can only have a maximum of two days sunshine and then we're all in the thralls of mildew again!

As we travel and meet various people along the way, I am always so humbly surprised at the ones who are reading these words I record each day. I'm just a country girl from southeastern Idaho who came on this wagon train and never dreamed anyone would know any different. I hope what I do say helps people to understand my personal passion for our westward migration, as well as my genuine grief for the Native Americans loss of their way of life. I'm left with a feeling of bewilderment, feelings of sorrow and shame, joy and wonder, and finding difficulty in feeling complete satisfaction in the expansion of the west.

Chris Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999


Friday, May 14, 1999
Departed:   Arrived:
Dyer Park, Nebraska   Hastings, Nebraska

Chris Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999

Saturday, May 15, 1999
Departed:   Arrived:
Hastings, Nebraska   Layover
Hastings layover.

Yesterday, we came into Hastings from Dyer Park, making for a short ten mile day. We got into camp at their fairgrounds at 10:15 a.m. I immediately took a hot shower, gathered up my dirty clothes and went with Kay, Donny, and Chuck's wife, Mary, to the laundromat. We went to Burger King for lunch, all of us rather hungry for a grease feast. As much as I like modern conveniences, especially a hot shower, coming back to 1999 in all its hustle and bustle takes away from me that quiet, peaceful, reflective feeling of living on the trail and making do with what each new campsite will or will not offer, and also from the slower but much more rewarding time as we travel during the day.

Last night at ten o'clock, when we were all ready for sleep, we received word that a severe thunderstorm with one inch hail was headed our way. The hail didn't turn out to be much but from the sounds coming off the canvas of the wagon, it sounded like the rain was coming out of buckets. Then the wind blew hard enough to rock the wagon back and forth and my overzealous, imaginative mind could only wonder what damage a tornado was going to do to me. Gratefully, I was spared. (There was no tornado - only in my mind.)

Today, I went to help map out the routes for the next couple of days and was able to get to the store for another pair of shoes. We'll see how well Reebok holds up to the test. My feet are feeling so much better and I'm ready for the trek again.

Chris Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999


Sunday, May 16, 1999
Departed:   Arrived:
Hastings, Nebraska   Kenesaw, Nebraska
Hastings to Kenesaw

There are many weather conditions that could be worse but I though today's weather, particularly this morning's, was downright rotten. We had the most oppressive fog, the air so thick and heavy that I felt like gasping for clean, clear air. I expected some spring-like weather - the usual rain showers and a bit of nippy air as winter made her best effort to hold on, but now I'm starting to get irritable about the whole thing. Sunshine is well overdue as we all begin to feel like we're going to come down with a good case of rickets.

We traveled 18 miles today and I made it all the way on foot in my new shoes - hurray! We are camped at a farmer's place tonight and I am glad to be back out in the countryside again.

An oxbow wagon train that is traveling from Council Bluffs will be joining us tomorrow night at Fort Kearny. These folks traveled with Ben and Donny on the Mormon Trail, but I don't think any of them are planning on continuing on.

We got another teamster to join up with us today. His first name is Loren, but I haven't had the chance to get acquainted yet.

As I prepare to bed down for the night, I look out across the western horizon and can only hope that tomorrow will provide some long overdue sunshine and warm temperatures. Funny how weather has such an impact on me nowadays.
When I first came on the wagon train, I was pitching my cowboy tent everyday and sleeping in that, but since we've had so much rain and humidity, Chuck has been good hearted enough to allow me to stay in his wagon at night. I'm not sure I am roughing this as much as I should be.

Chris Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999

Monday, May 17, 1999
Departed:   Arrived:
Kenesaw, Nebraska   Fort Kearney, Nebraska
Kenesaw to Fort Kearney

From 1 to 2:30 a.m., I listened to wind and rain pelting the wagon. The wagon train headed out at 7:30 this morning and I left about 30 minutes earlier. I stayed ahead until six miles short of the next camp at Fort Kearny and then it seemed the race was on between Ben's wagon train and the Oxbow teams, with me being driven ever faster onward, completely unaware at the time that I was caught up in a race. We made it, however, to the finish line first. I was pretty well wrung out, walking 21 miles today. I fell asleep in Chuck's wagon (where I'm residing now since he sleeps in his R.V.) and nearly missed supper. I felt a lot better after eating and managed to get into Kearney with Kay and April (our newest member, who is a student at University of Nebraska Lincoln, working on her Ph.D.) to do a couple loads of laundry.

I met a neat couple there while waiting for my clothes to dry who are on their way to Alaska to live, having been in Virginia. We had a great conversation about what I'm doing and what their new adventure is and I came away with yet another confirmation of the goodness of people. People everywhere are just great and it's so good for me to be on the road (or trail) and making all these wonderful acquaintances. I tend to live in my own little world and fail to intermingle, as I think so many of us do in our ever increasingly hectic lives. I'll bet the pioneers had a similar experience drawing closer to other members of their train, as well as whoever they came in contact with along the way.

Chris Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999


Tuesday, May 18, 1999
Departed:   Arrived:
Fort Kearney, Nebraska   Elm Creek, Nebraska
Fort Kearny to Elm Creek

I shoved off by myself this morning at 7 and stayed way ahead all day, getting into camp soon enough to get a quick nap in the pickup. My feet are healed and the Reeboks are perfect, although everything begins to hurt by the time I've walked 23 miles.

We're camped in a cow pasture and that sure takes me back to my childhood when I spent more time playing in the pastures on the ranch than anywhere. I swear I can smell pigs, however.

We had a beautiful sunny day, and I don't mean to complain but the winds nearly sucked the life out of me. Actually, I think everyone in camp is pooped tonight. There's a great sunset tonight, with a windmill twirling in the horizon. The wind isn't quite as fierce tonight and I think I will sleep like a babe tonight.

Chris Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999


Wednesday, May 19, 1999
Departed:   Arrived:
Elm Creek, Nebraska   Lexington, Nebraska
Elm Creek to Lexington

The wind was blowing hard when I left camp at 7 a.m., the skies threatening to storm, so I slowed my pace until Kay and April caught up to me. Kay doesn't have the length of stride that April and I do so we were soon ahead of her. We came 25 miles today and I walked 19 of them.

I enjoyed getting to know April. She's a very soft spoken, independent woman and we discovered we have a lot in common. We walk well together and she is a runner like myself so we should be able to get a lot of walking done together. I find it interesting how lives cross each other's paths as we learn and grow and teach each other.

Chris Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999


Thursday, May 20, 1999
Departed:   Arrived:
Lexington, Nebraska   Cozad, Nebraska
Lexington to Cozad

This morning when I got up, I was feeling kind of strange - weak in the knees and shaky. I think my body is crying, "uncle," and I decided to listen to it and chose to ride in the wagon. It turned out to be a good decision since about six miles out it started to rain, the kind of rain that settles in like it's going to stay. We are camped on the outskirts of Cozad in Jean and Mike Critfield's pasture, a great spot with trees and the grass mowed down for us. After everyone scattered to the four directions, Jean came by and asked if I would like to see her llamas. She showed me her herd of llamas with their newborns, her miniature donkeys, and then took me into Cozad to see her friend's miniature mare and foal, bobcat and fox. Her friend's name is Gayle and I thoroughly enjoyed the time talking to them both. Gayle is headed to San Diego for a marathon on Sunday and so she and I had a good conversation about being in physical condition for both of our tasks. She gave me some stuff to soak my tired feet in at night and a Power Bar. I can't get over how kind and generous people are here in Nebraska. While out walking each day, I always get people stopping and asking if they can give me a ride somewhere. Everybody waves. It's great.

Gary, our cook, wanted me to mention how grateful we are to Iowa Beef Producers (IBP) for donating two top sirloin roasts. Vittles are gonna be good!

This morning while riding with Donny, Kate and Jim ( the mules) were really struggling with wanting to go. I think Kate felt about like I do today - pooped. Donny kept slapping them both on the hip with the driving reins to no avail. Disgusted with the mules noncompliance, Donny bailed out of the wagon to go get a willow. Of course, I'm expecting him to come back with about a five to six foot, slender willow stick. But I underestimated his frustration. Past the side of the wagon he comes carrying this branch, his hand wrapped around the near-sized trunk of tree and he walks in front of Kate and Jim. Their ears drop down as they size this tree going by and I can tell what they're thinking. Ben cries out, "I think you need a longer stick, Donny." Straight faced and unaware of the comments, he climbs back up on the wagon and away we go with two quick cracks on the mules' butts. I couldn't contain myself and laughed for the next several miles. Somehow, I'm not so sure Donny was as amused as I was..

I can't express enough what a wonderful experience this is for me. Everyone is so fun to be around and we all help each other out and understand the comforts and discomforts of a journey such as this. And I'm finding out that I am a strong person, a woman of determination and strength, both physically and emotionally. These are good characteristics for me to see in myself since I've not always felt that I was up to much on my own. I've always been a little too dependent on someone else's ideas and strengths, doubting myself first. Who knows, maybe by the time I'm in Sacramento my vision quest will have revealed to me that I am a choice spirit with much good to add to this mortal existence, that I can trust my own heart and inner voice.

Chris Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999


Friday, May 21, 1999
Departed:   Arrived:
Cozad, Nebraska   Gothenburg, Nebraska

Cozad to Gothenburg

April walked with me today, putting in 18 miles. The weather was quite perfect, perhaps a little on the warm side, but you'll not hear me complain.

We camped at the stockyards. After a steak and shrimp supper, I took a walk to a nearby lake and did some writing. Gothenburg is a nice, clean town.

We traveled through farming country today.

Chris Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999


Saturday, May 22, 1999
Departed:   Arrived:
Gothenburg, Nebraska   Brady, Nebraska
Gothenburg to Brady

After walking my first mile this morning, I got nauseated and thought I was going to lose my pancakes. After willing myself not to throw up on somebody's yard, since I was still within city limits, I continued on. I can only guess that I am a little over tired.

From farming ground, almost immediately it seemed we went into grazing country as we headed into the Sand Hills. The terrain is beginning to get a little hilly with lots of prairie grass and herds of cattle roaming about I felt like heading off into the hills as memories came flooding back of my childhood when I enjoyed spending my time outside exploring and riding horses and seeing the cattle grazing along the hillsides. I could freeze frame being 10 years old again and be perfectly content.

My body is adjusting to the walking and I'm beginning to feel stronger and healthier. When I'm out trudging down the trail, I find myself thinking about what Gary, our chef, is cooking for supper. I don't think the guys realize what a treat it is for us women to be fed everyday. We're usually the ones with that blessed job, so to be so well nurtured with the delicious meals we've been receiving is really special to me. Between living out of doors and breathing fresh air and the great exercise routine, I get pretty ravenous by 6 p.m. Sure hope I can keep ahead of the good food, however.

Chris Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999


Sunday, May 23, 1999
Departed:   Arrived:
Brady, Nebraska   North Platte, Nebraska
Brady to North Platte

Happy birthday to my dearest, sweetest mom. I thought about you often today.

April and I didn't get out of camp as early as we should have and the wagon train caught us about 7 miles out. We rode in the wagons until lunch break and then I walk/ran along side the wagons into North Platte, about six miles. It felt good to run since I am a runner and haven't been able to get my endorphin high lately. I think I only managed 13 of the 26 miles today. Too bad because I was up to the challenge of 26.

We are on layover here until Wednesday morning. The two other ladies, Kay and April, are gone until Wednesday, leaving me the only female in camp. I don't mind.

I'm sitting in the grandstands this evening while writing in this and watching the mules wander aimlessly around the arena, never straying too far from their partner. Scooter, our saddle horse, is on his knees trying to graze on the other side of the fence. I certainly have a lot of respect for the stock for they mindfully, dutifully travel down the road everyday in spite of crazy automobile drivers and all the other frightening and distracting objects they see.

Chris Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999