|
1999 Gold Rush Wagon Train "Goin for the Gold" |
Nebraska Trail Diary
| Friday,
May 7, 1999 |
| Departed: |
|
Arrived: |
| Lanham, Kansas |
|
Rock Creek,
Nebraska |
| Lanham to Rock Creek Station
A disheartening day for me as we
continue our trek without the other wagons, for Ben drove his mules at
a trot most of the day, which caused me to run alongside the
wagon. I kept up the pace for the first seven or so miles but was
developing a blister on one foot and something was going haywire on my
other foot. Finally, I had to get in the wagon.
I need this trip to be a
chance for me to walk and see and feel my personal progression across
this great country - to have those moments to be in tuned spiritually
and be able to grasp for myself the dreams of the people who steadily
moved across this land in search of their own peace.
We are camped at Rock Creek Station, Nebraska, at what I
would call a perfect place because of its historical significance,
besides the fact that it is absolutely gorgeous and peaceful. The
sun is struggling to break through these undaunting rain clouds and when
the rays touch my face I can feel that all is perfect for me for the
moment. I could live here indefinitely, walking over the trail
ruts, following the various trails through the trees and creek beds and
just simply existing within the beauty that surrounds me.
Rock Creek Station was a place where the
emigrants stopped for supplies and repairs on their wagons.
Because of the steep embankments along Rock Creek, a toll bridge was
built to accommodate traversing across the creek. Many of the
buildings have been preserved here and further adds to the feeling that
it's the 1800's.
A gentle breeze blows about me as I can
practically see the Pony Express rider galloping swiftly off the
hillside into the station to make his mounted exchange; the road-weary
pioneers slowly making their way in for much needed supplies and a place
to rest up; and can even wonder at best what events actually transpired
when Wild Bill Hickok began his career as a gunfighter when he shot down
David McCanles, the Rock Creek road ranch owner.
We have finally been relieved of the winds and
this evening is breathtaking. Oh, but if only I could suspend such
moments, I'd be held within this hour.
I can't help but feel the tears well within.
Chris
Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999
|
|
| Saturday,
May 8, 1999 |
| Departed: |
|
Arrived: |
| Rock Creek,
Nebraska |
|
Layover |
Rock Creek
We had our layover day here at Rock Creek and
sure had a beautiful one to spend catching up on various things. Kay and
I got our laundry done and I spent the afternoon just taking it
easy. My feet need the day to try and recover.
Chris
Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999 |
|
| Sunday,
May 9, 1999 |
| Departed: |
|
Arrived: |
| Rock Creek,
Nebraska |
|
Alexandria,
Nebraska |
| Rock Creek Station to Alexandria
After downing a bite of breakfast, I
headed out ahead of the train by about an hour. I was determined
to make the mileage today and stay ahead of the wagon train as well. And
I was successful, but I am tired. Unfortunately, I developed
another blister on the back of my heel.

We covered 23 miles and
are camped at Alexandria State Park. It's a lovely area with a
small lake and lots of different trees around us. As I walked into
the park all dressed in my prairie garb, I sure got some strange looks
from everyone who was out recreating for the day. A group of
families came to greet me, offered me a hot dog, hamburger, soda pop or whatever I wanted. I kindly asked for a drink of water. They
gathered all their small children around me to have our photograph taken
and I think the kids wondered who in the heck I was.
We've got a good hefty wind blowing this
evening and I sure hope we aren't in for more storm.
In a fleeting moment today while I was walking
past an area that looked as you would imagine it did some 150 years ago,
I glimpsed the ghost of a most magnificent Indian warrior mounted upon
his painted horse, his feathered headdress blowing in the wind, his
bronzed skin glistening in the sun, his sturdy hand gripping his spear,
and his face gloriously painted. And he was watching me pass by
and I suddenly felt the intruder and wished that I could grant him back
his land, his buffalo, his way of life.
Chris
Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999
|
|
| Monday,
May 10, 1999 |
| Departed: |
|
Arrived: |
| Alexandria,
Nebraska |
|
Belvidere,
Nebraska |
| Alexandria to Belvidere
I left ahead of the train this morning, thinking I
could easily cover our 14 miles, but after having gone 10 of those
miles, a blister broke on the side of my heel so I disappointingly sat
down and waited for the wagon train to pick me up. Tonight, I am
soaking my feet in Epsom's salts while I make this journal entry.
I honestly don't know how those pioneers made it in the shoes they
had. I feel like a wimp to complain.
We are in Belvidere, Nebraska, tonight, parked
by their museum. Everyone is pretty relaxed and enjoying the
time we have to rest. The mayor of this small community is a
robust 84 year old woman who has held the position since 1974. She
seems to take a lot of pride in her town and has genuinely welcomed us
here.
I have failed to put down in words some of the
good people I've met and any comments about the ones I travel with
everyday. First of all, I owe a big thanks to Steve and Candy
Moulton from Encampment, Wyoming, who traveled with us the first
week. They really helped me in getting into the routine of living
on the trail and were like friends I'd known forever. Thanks, you
two. We all have really missed you.
In our group now we have Ben Kern, our
wagonmaster, who nearly worries himself to death, but when he can relax
has a great sense of humor and is fun to listen to; Donny Marincic, our
trail boss, who quietly goes about his work and is a calming influence
for all of us; Chuck Quillin, one of the teamsters and the guy who
always has us laughing, a true blue sort of guy; Kay Threlkeld, who is
representing the Park Service Long Distance Trails and is a lot of fun
to be with and has a wealth of knowledge concerning the trails history;
Gary, our life-saving chef who puts out the best meals you could have;
and Bart, a young man along for the summer and is an easy and fun guy to
talk to.
We had a lot of local folks come out tonight to
eat a turkey dinner with us and they all seemed to be such good people,
enthused by our efforts. We enjoy so much when people
support us and we have that chance to make so many acquaintances along
the way.
Tomorrow is a big day for us - some 20 odd
miles and I won't be able to walk if I intend to heal. That's
disappointing to me because I so enjoy the closeness I feel to nature
when I'm walking. It provides me some great time to contemplate,
to feel truly alive.
Chris
Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999
|
|
| Tuesday,
May 11, 1999 |
| Departed: |
|
Arrived: |
| Belvidere,
Nebraska |
|
Oak, Nebraska |
| Belvidere to Oak
We covered 20 miles today, arriving in Oak, Nebraska,
population 68. I rode the wagon all day, giving my feet a chance
to recover. Experiencing the trail from the wagon isn't as
rewarding for me as walking, doesn't make me feel I earned my groceries
or that I was as intuned with the possibility of a vision of long
ago. Somehow, I think the spirits of those many pioneers are more
likely to whisper to me if I'm working at this journey, getting down on
my own two feet and moving along as they did.
I'm grateful that there are still ruts of the
westward migration. With the vast expanse of our nation and
its people, one wonders how we have much left to testify of their
travels. The ruts have a spirit all their own. One only
needs step into them and be still and allow your mind and heart to be
open enough to see the visions and feel their spirits there.
Chris
Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999
|
|
| Wednesday,
May 12, 1999 |
| Departed: |
|
Arrived: |
| Oak, Nebraska |
|
Deweese,
Nebraska |
| Oak to Deweese
We woke to a heavy dew on everything
but strong was the promise of sunshine. Kay and I left camp and
had a beautiful eight mile walk before the wagons caught up with
us. My feet are still sore but our pace was fairly slow so I was
able to manage it. I really miss the challenge of trying to make
all the miles on foot. We traveled 20.5 miles to the very small
town of Deweese. The children in the neighborhood have been
hanging around all evening and I'm not used to the commotion they
create, so I slipped away to my wagon.
This experience is good for me because we come
in contact with people everywhere we go. In my sheltered world at
home, I watch television programs and newscasts and I start feeling like
there isn't anyone who is a good human being anymore, but traveling
along at three to four miles per hour gives me a chance to wave and be
waved at, to say hello to someone who is working in the yard, and some
folks have even brought cookies and a drink out to us. The people
who come to our campsites and eat with us are the salt of the earth, the
true backbone of our country and I'm pleased to report that there are
many, many good people who are working hard, raising families and doing
their genuine best.
Chris
Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999
|
|
| Thursday,
May 13, 1999 |
| Departed: |
|
Arrived: |
| Deweese,
Nebraska |
|
Dyer Park, Nebraska |
Deweese to Dyer Park
Kay and I walked out of camp at 7:15 and
covered some nine miles or so before getting back in the wagons. I
guess I'm not giving my feet a chance to get better, for I sure gimp
about camp at night. This is becoming way too distressful to me to
not be walking. I bought Nike brand shoes and intent to make a
visit to the sports store this weekend when we lay over.
We traveled from Deweese to Dyer Park, making
23 miles today. Just as we got pulled into camp, I noticed a
strong wind from the south and now we have clouds coming in. We
can only have a maximum of two days sunshine and then we're all in the
thralls of mildew again!
As we travel and meet various people along the
way, I am always so humbly surprised at the ones who are reading these
words I record each day. I'm just a country girl from
southeastern Idaho who came on this wagon train and never dreamed anyone
would know any different. I hope what I do say helps people to
understand my personal passion for our westward migration, as well as my
genuine grief for the Native Americans loss of their way of life.
I'm left with a feeling of bewilderment, feelings of sorrow and shame,
joy and wonder, and finding difficulty in feeling complete satisfaction
in the expansion of the west.
Chris
Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999
|
|
| Friday,
May 14, 1999 |
| Departed: |
|
Arrived: |
| Dyer Park, Nebraska |
|
Hastings, Nebraska |
Chris
Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999 |
|
| Saturday,
May 15, 1999 |
| Departed: |
|
Arrived: |
| Hastings, Nebraska |
|
Layover |
| Hastings layover.
Yesterday, we came into Hastings
from Dyer Park, making for a short ten mile day. We got into camp
at their fairgrounds at 10:15 a.m. I immediately took a hot
shower, gathered up my dirty clothes and went with Kay, Donny, and
Chuck's wife, Mary, to the laundromat. We went to Burger King for
lunch, all of us rather hungry for a grease feast. As much as I
like modern conveniences, especially a hot shower, coming back to 1999
in all its hustle and bustle takes away from me that quiet, peaceful,
reflective feeling of living on the trail and making do with what each
new campsite will or will not offer, and also from the slower but much
more rewarding time as we travel during the day.
Last night at ten o'clock, when we were all
ready for sleep, we received word that a severe thunderstorm with one
inch hail was headed our way. The hail didn't turn out to be
much but from the sounds coming off the canvas of the wagon, it sounded
like the rain was coming out of buckets. Then the wind blew hard
enough to rock the wagon back and forth and my overzealous, imaginative
mind could only wonder what damage a tornado was going to do to
me. Gratefully, I was spared. (There was no tornado - only in my
mind.)
Today, I went to help map out the routes for
the next couple of days and was able to get to the store for another
pair of shoes. We'll see how well Reebok holds up to the
test. My feet are feeling so much better and I'm ready for the
trek again.
Chris
Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999
|
|
| Sunday,
May 16, 1999 |
| Departed: |
|
Arrived: |
| Hastings, Nebraska |
|
Kenesaw, Nebraska |
| Hastings to Kenesaw
There are many weather conditions
that could be worse but I though today's weather, particularly this
morning's, was downright rotten. We had the most oppressive fog,
the air so thick and heavy that I felt like gasping for clean, clear
air. I expected some spring-like weather - the usual rain showers
and a bit of nippy air as winter made her best effort to hold on, but
now I'm starting to get irritable about the whole thing. Sunshine
is well overdue as we all begin to feel like we're going to come down
with a good case of rickets.
We traveled 18 miles today and I made it all
the way on foot in my new shoes - hurray! We are camped at a farmer's
place tonight and I am glad to be back out in the countryside again.
An oxbow wagon train that is traveling from
Council Bluffs will be joining us tomorrow night at Fort Kearny.
These folks traveled with Ben and Donny on the Mormon Trail, but I don't
think any of them are
planning on continuing on.
We got another teamster to join up with us
today. His first name is Loren, but I haven't had the chance
to get acquainted yet.
As I prepare to bed down for the night, I look
out across the western horizon and can only hope that tomorrow will
provide some long overdue sunshine and warm temperatures. Funny
how weather has such an impact on me nowadays.
When I first came on the wagon train, I was
pitching my cowboy tent everyday and sleeping in that, but since we've
had so much rain and humidity, Chuck has been good hearted enough to
allow me to stay in his wagon at night. I'm not sure I am
roughing this as much as I should be.
Chris
Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999 |
|
| Monday,
May 17, 1999 |
| Departed: |
|
Arrived: |
| Kenesaw, Nebraska |
|
Fort Kearney, Nebraska |
| Kenesaw to Fort Kearney
From 1 to 2:30 a.m., I listened to
wind and rain pelting the wagon. The wagon train headed out at
7:30 this morning and I left about 30 minutes earlier. I stayed
ahead until six miles short of the next camp at Fort Kearny and then it
seemed the race was on between Ben's wagon train and the Oxbow teams,
with me being driven ever faster onward, completely unaware at the time
that I was caught up in a race. We made it, however, to the finish
line first. I was pretty well wrung out, walking 21 miles
today. I fell asleep in Chuck's wagon (where I'm residing now
since he sleeps in his R.V.) and nearly missed supper. I felt a
lot better after eating and managed to get into Kearney with Kay and
April (our newest member, who is a student at University of Nebraska
Lincoln, working on her Ph.D.) to do a couple loads of laundry.
I met a neat couple there while waiting for my
clothes to dry who are on their way to Alaska to live, having been in
Virginia. We had a great conversation about what I'm doing and
what their new adventure is and I came away with yet another
confirmation of the goodness of people. People everywhere are just
great and it's so good for me to be on the road (or trail) and making
all these wonderful acquaintances. I tend to live in my own little
world and fail to intermingle, as I think so many of us do in our ever
increasingly hectic lives. I'll bet the pioneers had a similar
experience drawing closer to other members of their train, as well as
whoever they came in contact with along the way.
Chris
Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999
|
|
| Tuesday,
May 18, 1999 |
| Departed: |
|
Arrived: |
| Fort Kearney, Nebraska |
|
Elm Creek, Nebraska |
| Fort Kearny to Elm Creek
I shoved off by myself this morning
at 7 and stayed way ahead all day, getting into camp soon enough to get
a quick nap in the pickup. My feet are healed and the Reeboks are
perfect, although everything begins to hurt by the time I've walked 23
miles.
We're camped in a cow pasture and that sure
takes me back to my childhood when I spent more time playing in the
pastures on the ranch than anywhere. I swear I can smell pigs,
however.
We had a beautiful sunny day, and I don't mean
to complain but the winds nearly sucked the life out of me.
Actually, I think everyone in camp is pooped tonight. There's a
great sunset tonight, with a windmill twirling in the horizon. The
wind isn't quite as fierce tonight and I think I will sleep like a babe
tonight.
Chris
Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999
|
|
| Wednesday,
May 19, 1999 |
| Departed: |
|
Arrived: |
| Elm Creek, Nebraska |
|
Lexington, Nebraska |
| Elm Creek to Lexington
The wind was blowing hard when I
left camp at 7 a.m., the skies threatening to storm, so I slowed my pace
until Kay and April caught up to me. Kay doesn't have the length
of stride that April and I do so we were soon ahead of her.
We came 25 miles today and I walked 19 of them.
I enjoyed getting to know April. She's a
very soft spoken, independent woman and we discovered we have a lot in
common. We walk well together and she is a runner like myself so
we should be able to get a lot of walking done together. I find it
interesting how lives cross each other's paths as we learn and grow and
teach each other.
Chris
Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999
|
|
| Thursday,
May 20, 1999 |
| Departed: |
|
Arrived: |
| Lexington, Nebraska |
|
Cozad, Nebraska |
| Lexington to Cozad
This morning when I got up, I was
feeling kind of strange - weak in the knees and shaky. I think my
body is crying, "uncle," and I decided to listen to it and
chose to ride in the wagon. It turned out to be a good decision
since about six miles out it started to rain, the kind of rain that
settles in like it's going to stay. We are camped on the outskirts
of Cozad in Jean and Mike Critfield's pasture, a great spot with trees
and the grass mowed down for us. After everyone scattered to the
four directions, Jean came by and asked if I would like to see her
llamas. She showed me her herd of llamas with their newborns, her
miniature donkeys, and then took me into Cozad to see her friend's
miniature mare and foal, bobcat and fox. Her friend's name
is Gayle and I thoroughly enjoyed the time talking to them
both. Gayle is headed to San Diego for a marathon on Sunday
and so she and I had a good conversation about being in physical
condition for both of our tasks. She gave me some stuff to soak my
tired feet in at night and a Power Bar. I can't get over how kind
and generous people are here in Nebraska. While out walking each
day, I always get people stopping and asking if they can give me a ride
somewhere. Everybody waves. It's great.
Gary, our cook, wanted me to mention how
grateful we are to Iowa Beef Producers (IBP) for donating two top
sirloin roasts. Vittles are gonna be good!
This morning while riding with Donny, Kate and
Jim ( the mules) were really struggling with wanting to go. I
think Kate felt about like I do today - pooped. Donny kept
slapping them both on the hip with the driving reins to no avail.
Disgusted with the mules noncompliance, Donny bailed out of the wagon to
go get a willow. Of course, I'm expecting him to come back with
about a five to six foot, slender willow stick. But I
underestimated his frustration. Past the side of the wagon he
comes carrying this branch, his hand wrapped around the near-sized trunk
of tree and he walks in front of Kate and Jim. Their ears drop
down as they size this tree going by and I can tell what they're
thinking. Ben cries out, "I think you need a longer stick,
Donny." Straight faced and unaware of the comments, he climbs
back up on the wagon and away we go with two quick cracks on the mules'
butts. I couldn't contain myself and laughed for the next several
miles. Somehow, I'm not so sure Donny was as amused as I
was..
I can't express enough what a wonderful
experience this is for me. Everyone is so fun to be around and we
all help each other out and understand the comforts and discomforts of a
journey such as this. And I'm finding out that I am a strong
person, a woman of determination and strength, both physically and
emotionally. These are good characteristics for me to see in
myself since I've not always felt that I was up to much on my own.
I've always been a little too dependent on someone else's ideas and
strengths, doubting myself first. Who knows, maybe by the time I'm
in Sacramento my vision quest will have revealed to me that I am a
choice spirit with much good to add to this mortal existence, that I can
trust my own heart and inner voice.
Chris
Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999
|
|
| Friday,
May 21, 1999 |
| Departed: |
|
Arrived: |
| Cozad, Nebraska |
|
Gothenburg, Nebraska |
Cozad to Gothenburg
April walked with me today, putting in 18
miles. The weather was quite perfect, perhaps a little on the warm
side, but you'll not hear me complain.
We camped at the stockyards. After a steak and
shrimp supper, I took a walk to a nearby lake and did some
writing. Gothenburg is a nice, clean town.
We traveled through farming country today.
Chris
Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999
|
|
| Saturday,
May 22, 1999 |
| Departed: |
|
Arrived: |
| Gothenburg, Nebraska |
|
Brady, Nebraska |
| Gothenburg to Brady
After walking my first mile this
morning, I got nauseated and thought I was going to lose my
pancakes. After willing myself not to throw up on somebody's yard,
since I was still within city limits, I continued on. I can only
guess that I am a little over tired.
From farming ground, almost immediately it
seemed we went into grazing country as we headed into the Sand
Hills. The terrain is beginning to get a little hilly with lots of
prairie grass and herds of cattle roaming about I felt like heading off
into the hills as memories came flooding back of my childhood when I
enjoyed spending my time outside exploring and riding horses and seeing
the cattle grazing along the hillsides. I could freeze frame being
10 years old again and be perfectly content.
My body is adjusting to the walking and I'm
beginning to feel stronger and healthier. When I'm out trudging
down the trail, I find myself thinking about what Gary, our chef, is
cooking for supper. I don't think the guys realize what a treat it
is for us women to be fed everyday. We're usually the ones with
that blessed job, so to be so well nurtured with the delicious meals
we've been receiving is really special to me. Between living out
of doors and breathing fresh air and the great exercise routine, I get
pretty ravenous by 6 p.m. Sure hope I can keep ahead of the good
food, however.
Chris
Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999
|
|
| Sunday,
May 23, 1999 |
| Departed: |
|
Arrived: |
| Brady, Nebraska |
|
North Platte, Nebraska |
| Brady to North Platte
Happy birthday to my dearest,
sweetest mom. I thought about you often today.
April and I didn't get out of
camp as early as we should have and the wagon train caught us about 7
miles out. We rode in the wagons until lunch break and then I walk/ran
along side the wagons into North Platte, about six miles. It felt good
to run since I am a runner and haven't been able to get my endorphin
high lately. I think I only managed 13 of the 26 miles today. Too bad
because I was up to the challenge of 26.
We are on layover here until Wednesday morning. The
two other ladies, Kay and April, are gone until Wednesday, leaving me
the only female in camp. I don't mind.
I'm sitting in the grandstands this evening
while writing in this and watching the mules wander aimlessly around the
arena, never straying too far from their partner. Scooter, our saddle
horse, is on his knees trying to graze on the other side of the fence. I
certainly have a lot of respect for the stock for they mindfully,
dutifully travel down the road everyday in spite of crazy automobile
drivers and all the other frightening and distracting objects they see.
Chris
Cochran Thomas
Copyright 1999
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